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Renting a car in Italy: ZTL fines, tolls, driving permits — or take the train?

A car is great for the countryside and a liability in historic centres.

PROTOTYPE · SEO/GEO article v1 · facts from the EmweGo guides (checked 2026-09-23) · question source: Traveller-questions research A01–A10 (Reddit, forums), 23 Sep 2026 (A01, A10)
Short answer

Use trains between cities and a car for the countryside — Tuscany, Puglia, Sicily, Sardinia, the Dolomites. Non-EU drivers should carry an International Driving Permit with their licence. Never drive into a ZTL (restricted historic centre): cameras record your plate and the fine reaches you via the rental company, up to 360 days later. On motorways use the blue ‘Carte’ lanes for cards or white lanes for cash — yellow lanes are Telepass-only.

Checked 2026-09-23 · Italy · Getting around

At a glance
Car makes senseTuscany, Umbria, Puglia, Sicily, Sardinia, the Dolomites
Skip the carRome, Florence, Venice, Milan, Naples — trains between them
Driving permitNon-EU licence: carry an International Driving Permit
ZTLRestricted centres with cameras · fines sent via the rental company within 360 days
Toll lanesBlue = cards · white = cash · yellow = Telepass only
Unpaid tollPay the ‘unpaid toll report’ online

Car or train?

Good to know

Trains for the cities

Between Rome, Florence, Bologna, Venice, Milan and Naples, fast trains are quicker than driving and parking.

Trains in Italy →

Good to know

A car for the countryside

Rural Tuscany and Umbria, Puglia, Sicily, Sardinia and the Dolomites are where travellers find a car worth it.
Good to know

Pick up after the city

Collect the car when you leave the big city (e.g. at the station or airport) instead of driving into it.

Rules that cost tourists money

Watch out

ZTL — restricted traffic zones

Verified 2026-09-23
Historic centres across Italy limit traffic with permits and cameras. Fines are sent to the rental company, which passes on your name — letters can arrive up to 360 days later, often with an admin fee.

U.S. Embassy Italy · driving ↗

Watch out

Hotel inside a ZTL?

Ask the hotel in writing how to register your plate — before you drive in. Otherwise park outside and walk.
Watch out

Speed cameras

Verified 2026-09-23
Automated cameras operate on many roads and motorways; fines follow the same route via the rental company.

U.S. Embassy Italy · driving ↗

Motorway tolls

Transport option

Pick the right lane

Verified 2026-09-23
Blue signs = cards (Visa, Mastercard, Amex, Maestro — contactless, no PIN). White = cash. Yellow = Telepass only — don’t enter without a device.

Autostrade · paying by card ↗

Good to know

Wrong lane or no ticket?

Partially verified · 2026-09-23
You’ll get an ‘unpaid toll report’: pay it online. Travellers report a maximum-distance charge if you can’t show where you entered — self-certify your entry toll booth.

Autostrade · unpaid toll ↗

Rental tips from travellers

Good to know

Film the car at pickup

Candidate · not verified · 2026-09-23
Travellers in damage disputes regret not having video of the car and wheels at pickup and return.
Good to know

Credit card and deposit

Candidate · not verified · 2026-09-23
Rental companies usually want a credit card in the driver’s name and hold a deposit — check before booking.

Quick answers

Do I need an International Driving Permit in Italy?

Visitors with a non-EU licence should carry an International Driving Permit together with their licence.

What is a ZTL?

A restricted traffic zone, usually a historic centre, enforced by cameras. Enter without a permit and you’ll be fined.

How do ZTL fines reach tourists?

Through the rental company, which gives your details to the authority — the fine can arrive up to 360 days later.

Which motorway lane do I use to pay by card?

Lanes with blue signs. Yellow lanes are for Telepass only.

Go deeper in our guides

Guide

Italy essentials

Open →Guide

Tuscany

Open →Guide

Sicily

Open →

Related answers

Sources: U.S. Embassy Italy · driving ↗ · ACI · international driving permit ↗ · Autostrade · paying by card ↗ · Autostrade · unpaid toll ↗